39. Seal doors and windows with caulk, weatherstripping and plastic film. An investment of $50 in weatherizing supplies can reduce heating costs by two to three times that much. Don’t forget the basement windows!

40. Add foam gaskets behind all outlet covers and switchplates, and use safety plugs in all unused outlets. These are prime places for outside air to leak into your home. Be sure to shut off power at the fuse box or circuit panel first.

41. Check the exterior of your home for air leaks, especially around openings for water spigots, air conditioner hoses, dryer vents and gas pipes. Use caulk or expanding foam to seal spaces.

42. If your home has a large, single-pane picture window, use heavy draperies during the winter to help hold back cold air. 43. Tinted window film can help reduce heat gain during the summer, and it will keep furniture and carpets from fading.

44. Check window panes to see if they need new glazing. If the glass is loose, replace the putty holding the pane in place. Most types of window glazing require painting for a proper seal.

45. If drafts sneak in under exterior doors, replace the threshold. If that’s not practical, block the drafts with a rolled-up towel or
blanket.

46. If you have a door or window you never use, seal the edges with rope caulk. Don’t seal them shut permanently – you might need quick ventilation or escape during an emergency.

47. Choose the right kind of caulk for the job. Use latex or acrylic caulk inside – it’s easy to clean and more forgiving if you’re a beginner. Silicone caulk is great for outside use because it lasts longer and seals virtually any type of surface.

48. Don’t forget to weatherize the attic access. Secure batt insulation to the back of the hatch or door, and use weatherstripping to seal the opening.

Add foam gaskets behind all outlet covers and switch-plates, and use safety plugs in allunused outlets.